So I promised some fellow travellers that I would provide some details about my travel adventures to help them if they choose to go to some of the same places.
For those of you who aren't currently in East Africa, or planning on heading here soon, this post may be a bit dull.
Kampala to Fort Portal: In Kampala, as usual, I stayed at the Tuhende Safari Lodge on Martin Rd., beside Quality Supermarket, for 13,000 in a dorm with no other people in it, and warm showers and tea and toast for breakfast included. I took the "7 am" Kalita bus to Fort Portal, which left at 8:40, took a bit over 6 hrs (including a tire change stop) and cost 15,000.
I took a boda to Y.E.S. hostel, in the Fort Portal neighbourhood of Boma, for 1,500. The hostel costs 10,000 a night for a dorm room, it was really quiet when I was there, with plenty of space and warm showers at certain times of day. There is a kitchen for use there, and the setting is lovely and pastoral - cows, rolling hills, peace and quiet, and friendly staff. A boda to town (the market) costs 1,000 minimum, or 500 per person. The market is good, and it's nice to get to cook for yourself for a bit. We also enjoyed rolexes from a stand just downhill from the gas station on the edge of the market block. 2 eggs, 2 chapatis and lots of cabbage - 1,000. I bought my own bottle of Top Up hot sauce to complete the deliciousness.
I climbed up Mount Karangora with friendly guide Ben, which I arranged with the helpful Kabarole tours. They also have longer Rwenzori trips and a hot springs trip too.
Fort Portal to Kabale: The Kalita bus to Kabale leaves early, and I missed it. I got the number from one of the employees who works at the Kalita office in Fort Portal - I'll post it soon. Instead I took a matatu to Mbarara and then another to Kabale. Left Fort Portal at 9 am and got into Kabale just after 5 pm - not so bad. I forget the prices of the matatus, maybe 10,000 to Mbarara and 12,000 to Kabale?
In Kabale I stayed at House of Edirisa, dorm bed 5,000 (bargain!). The food there is pretty decent - loved their ïndian tea. The hostel gets busy, so book ahead. Across the street is Hot Loaf bakery with tasty veggie pizzas and the most enormous pastries! I used the internet between Royal Supermarket and Cafe Royal - friendly staff.
I went to Kalungu hot springs outside of Kabale for a good soak, lovely scenery on the way there too. I went with Felix on a boda boda (I'll get his #, but you can also ask at Edirisa). I payed 17,000 return trip, and Felix hung out while I went in the water (and interpreted for me). The locals asked for money for entrance, but Felix said that the springs are public and I didn't pay. It's around a 45 min drive each way. It's definitely worth the trip.
Kabale to Lake Bunyonyi: I went with Felix the boda driver to Rutinda, 5,000 for the boda ride, to take a dugout canoe to Byoona Amagara on Itambira island (follow the sign for Byoona Amagara parking, don't go to the main dock). The canoe trip there is free and takes about 50 minutes. I went with Noah, a lovely local boy who gave me lots of info on the area. Byoona Amagara was great, 13,000 per person for the big dorm. They have geo-domes which seem very romantic, especially the one closest to the water. The food is really good. They run on solar power, so it's a bit rustic but in a good way. The swimming and canoeing were great and I went on a little walk up a local hill, and around the school island nearby, with Noah. One of my favourite places in Uganda. The canoe ride back to Rutinda costs 3,000.
Kabale/Bunyonyi to Kisoro: Once back in Kabale I caught a saloon car shared taxi (get it in the big open taxi park near edirisa) to Kisoro. It was a tight squeeze with 4 in the front and 4 in the back of a standard ford taurus. I think it was 12,000 for the trip? The views on the way to Kisoro are fantastic. In Kisoro I stayed at Hotel Virunga, just behind the Mgahinga National Park office. It was okay, I had trouble finding a appealing place to stay so I settled on that one. 22,000 for my own room with shared bathroom facilities. The staff were nice though. I liked the internet place nearby, Modern World Internet. Very friendly staff and better price than the one near the stanbic bank. Another traveller I spoke with was staying at Grace Land hotel and loved it. It was cheaper as well, including bathroom.
I hiked up Mt Sabinyo in Mgahinga park, which costs $50 USD including park entry fee and guide (114,000 ugandan sh.). The peak is 3669 m, after climbing the first peak of 3430m and the second of 3545m. So it's 1300m elevation gain, but that doesn't include the up and down you have to do in between the 1st, 2nd and 3rd peaks. It's 14 km round trip, and it took me 10 hrs. It was a tough hike, but great scenery and well worth it. The ladders are crazy! I inquired at the office in town the day before, which you should do. They recommended getting a special hire because of the cold weather in the morning and the bad road - I'm glad I did it because I was exhausted on the way back and wouldn't have been able to hold onto a boda well. It cost 70,000 return trip (driver waiting for you when you're done the hike). You have to pay 10,000 the day before for the driver to get gas, because he picks you up at 6:15 am.
Kisoro to Gisenyi: I asked at the hotel about exchanging some shillings for rwandan francs. One of the hotel employees went to check the rates for me and got a rate of 100,000/= for 25,000 RWF - pretty similar to the rate I had found online. He said they would give me a bad rate (mzungu price!) if I went on my own, so I gave him the money to exchange. A bit risky perhaps, but he promptly returned with my francs!
The hotel called a boda driver for me and I took it to the border, 5,000. I had arranged a entry visa through an online form a few days before and brought the printout of the email the rwandan immigration sent me in response. You should definitely do this. If you are Canadian you need a visa now, as of Nov 1, 2010. The visa costs $60 US, and they take US dollars only. Apparently you are not allowed to bring plastic bags into Rwanda. I forgot and had some and it was fine, but if they feel like it they could search through your things and take out the plastic bags, so pack accordingly.
I took a bus right from the border, Virunga, to Ruhengeri (Musanze?) for 400 rwf. Then another Virunga express bus to Gisenyi for 1,100rwf. The bus let me out in Gisenyi right across the street from the Centre dAcceuil de lEglise Presbyterienne. I stayed there in a dorm for 2,000rwf a night. It could get busy also, but I didn't reserve. They serve meals there, basic breakfast and buffet lunch and dinner for 1,000. The market is worth a stop, and I had some expensive but tasty pizza at Serena hotel on the lake, and lounged looking out at the view.
I also took a trip down the Rubona peninsula, by the brewery, to the hotsprings there (amashusya) right beside the lake. I went just before sundown, with Jean Paul from the centre presbyterienne, for 1,000 return on his taxi moto, which is like a boda (they have helmets in Rwanda!). At that time of day there was some young men splashing around in the springs, and a ton of kids showed up after I arrived, so I didn't soak at all, just up to my shins. It was really neat to see, however, and to see the kids cooking little potatoes in the spots with the hottest water. If you went earlier in the day you might have some peace to soak a bit in the springs, and maybe go for a dip in the lake too.
Gisenyi to Kigali: I took the Virunga express bus again to Kigali - 2,800rwf. Takes a bit over three hours, with some beautiful scenery on the way. Passed through Ruhengeri again and had another good view of Mt Sabinyo (as well as Mt Muhavura and Mt Gahinga) - can't believe I climbed that thing!
Tried to stay beside Eglise St. Famille (St. Paul) right by the big roundabout - first tried the main centre, spoke with a nun who said it was full. She directed us to the "procure", which also was full. They sent us to Garden City hotel, which the taxi moto drivers did not know how to find. So we got dropped off near the roundabout again and started walking toward the Hotel Okapi and Auberge La Caverne, which we had read about in Lonely Planet. And right about where the Auberge should have been, according to the map, we found City Garden hotel (or Garden City hotel, depending on which sign you read). It's 25,000 for a room with two comfy double beds and a private bathroom, which I'm sharing with Caty from Finland. Basic breakfast is included. It's in a good location on Nyabugogo rd just downhill from the big roundabout on the downhill side of the street, past Hotel Okapi (which is on the opposite side of the street). As accomodation is expensive in Kigali, I would recommend this place. You can get a room with one bed and shared bathroom for 15,000.
I'm going to stay at the Procure on Sunday night when Caty leaves, so I'll try to get the phone number of the place and let you know how it is.
I'm writing this from Cybernet internet cafe right beside the Union trade centre. I successfully got money out of the atm of the main branch of ecobank with my visa card.
Now I'm off to Bourbon cafe. Enough writing for me!
Hope this was all helpful. I'll try to add those contact numbers and an update on the conclusion to my trip.
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